I never go grocery shopping alone.
Oh, sometimes I get to enjoy the luxury of getting into the car by myself and driving to the grocery store while listening to NPR on the radio and not having to talk three children out of using "the car cart" and not having to try to steer through crowded aisles of shoppers with one child hanging off the front of the cart, one hanging off the side, and one scrunched underneath, looking up at me while clinging to the underside of the basket. Sometimes I get to go and be quiet and not find myself saying every few minutes or so, "watch out!" "pay attention!" "excuse me, wide load coming through!" or "Please, please, please, please stop kicking him/pushing the cart into the shelves of coffee/pretending to re-enact commercials for every product in the store/asking for miniwheats or goldfish or ice cream or animal crackers or whatever." Sometimes I get to walk through the doors by myself, my list in my hand, humming and carefree.
But I'm never alone.
The moment I walk through the door, I'm immediately surrounded by an entire crowd of people, pressing and jostling against me, tugging at my sleeve, coughing meaningfully in my ear. It's not like they're strangers. I know them all. On the one side are The Blog Ladies. These women are legion and they are loud, and they are each saying different things. I can hear "Sprouted Wheat Lady" having an argument with "Gluten Free Lady" who is standing on the toes of both "Paleo Lady" and "Organic Kale Smoothie Lady" at the same time, while "I can Feed My Family of Twelve for $50.00 a Week Lady" is digging through her coupon file and "Makes her Own Goat Cheese Lady" looks slightly disgusted at the whole thought of being in a grocery store in the first place, and "Butter Flour Sugar Lady" just grins, gives a little whoop and pumps the air with her fist. They all talk with chipper bright sincerity that becomes in turn confidential, gossipy, and slightly superior. They all look pretty good, and they certainly seem to know what they're talking about, but to whom should I listen? The one yelling the loudest? The prettiest? The one who looks the most like a pioneer? The one who's done the most research?
Speaking of research, on another side, I can see Wendell Berry and Robert Farrar Capon, followed closely by Barbara Kingsolver and Michael Pollan -- it's The Scholarly Set. They're not quite as loud as The Blog Ladies but these are Writers who have published Books on actual paper, and they walk with a sense of authority and all-knowingness. They have answers for everything, and not just answers, but compelling, persuasive lines of reasoning that help me to see how, if I can just get it right, good grocery shopping is going to help save the world. And it doesn't matter how often I argue with them, "look, not everyone can inherit a farm in Virginia or Kentucky or wherever! Not everyone can afford to live in Berkeley and shop at Farmer's Markets every weekend! Not everyone can actually spend 30 minutes chopping an onion," they just look at me and explain a little more, do a few more calculations, tell a few more stories, recite a few more lines of poetry, and I just have to give up.
Trailing behind in their sensible shoes are my Dutch Ancestors. This is the quietest group of all; they are taciturn and silent, but you can feel their disapproval buzzing like an electric current through the air: "Is she really going to pay that for that? Well, I'd never spend that much money on an "avocado" (what's an avocado?), but to each his own. I guess." They raise their eyebrows at outlandish purchases like arugula and raspberries and hormone-free milk and can't quite believe that I bypass the Jello aisle entirely. It is the dollars and cents that matter, they say in their quiet, forceful way, and they are dumbfounded that a descendant of theirs would stand in front of the pork tenderloins and agonize several minutes over the question, "Organic? Non-Organic? None at all?" Walking with them is Budget Man in a tall dark suit, wearing glasses and carrying a calculator. He clears his throat pointedly every time my hand reaches for a bag of King Arthur flour or a package of whole bean coffee. I catch him rolling his eyes and sighing at my lack of self-control.
Then, too, I am here in the midst of this crowd, and I have my own opinions to deal with. Sometimes I'm feeling energetic and virtuous and willing to go through with any number of culinary experiments, to make my own tortillas, to eschew breakfast cereal, to buy only free-range eggs. Sometimes I fancy myself a bit of a foodie and I'm curious about things like rapini and bok choy and spelt flour and rice noodles and I just want to try them and see what I think. And sometimes, I am tired and pressed and rushed and all I really want to do is buy a package of hot dogs, a matching package of spongy white buns, a bag of potato chips and some ice cream and just be done with it.
Round about the time I'm nearing the end of my list, walking the half mile that it takes to get from one end of the store to the other because I forgot to pick up lemons on my first trip through the produce department, and the cacophony around me is getting overwhelming and I have a mammoth headache and my jaw is wound tight from being clenched for my entire trip and my stomach is in knots, right about then is when I want to turn on them all and say, "OK, enough. Thanks for your input and suggestions. Some of you are obviously really smart and some of you have great ideas, but look: I am just trying to do the best that I can here. Look at my cart. LOOK AT IT! Look at what's not in there. Look at what is in there. Yes, I'll probably go over my grocery budget again this month. Yes, I am going to walk out of here with organic strawberries for $4.29 a pound when the regular ones were on sale for $1.99 a pound. Yes, I am buying white flour and brown sugar. Look hard and you'll maybe find grapes that were grown in Chile. For that matter, virtually everything in my cart came from more than 100 miles away. I am doing the best that I can under the circumstances, so back off!"
Sometimes, that shuts them up long enough for me to hear the one voice that has been completely overwhelmed the whole time. The one voice that actually helps me breathe a little easier. The one voice which says, "Hey. You don't have to worry about what you'll eat or what you'll drink, or even what you'll wear for that matter. Those robins on your front lawn? Those cardinals and red-winged blackbirds in your backyard trees? They don't have to fret about what they're going to eat -- I take care of them, and I'm going to take care of you too. After all, you're way more important to me than they are. Just keep doing the best you can and don't worry."
And honestly? While that still, small, Holy message might not solve all my immediate grocery shopping worries, it does help me breathe more easily, helps the tension ease out of my shoulders, helps me clear away that gaggle of voices out of my head, helps restore my sanity enough so that when the cashier asks me how I'm doing, I can honestly say, "Not bad, actually. How are you?"